LEITZ Eins Zwei Dry Reinghau Riesling 750ml

The precipitous vineyards of Rüdesheim were Johannes Leitz's childhood playgrounds, and since then he's heard more than his share of misinformed wine lovers say, "I don't like Riesling because it's sweet" — which is as silly as saying "I don't like Volkswagens because they're blue". Well, many Volkswagens aren't blue, and the majority of German Riesling is dry these days. This whimsically-named example is Leitz's liquid calling card.

Riesling loves pork in the same way that you love your children. Despite its extroverted articulacy and shimmering purity, this one really just wants to nurture the talents of the ragù, supporting its lavish creaminess and mustard oil bite with luminescent florality and bell-tone salinity. It's so slippery it almost seems to drink itself, quenching thirst and venerating the dish all the way down to the last drop.